BLOOM

This season my starting point was colour.

Just in time for Holi, this festival perfectly embodies the uninhibited play of colour that we love so much and that over time has become the brand's signature.

However, for this collection it was more unrestrained, youthful and the palette was even brighter, more brilliant.

Taking our cue from the vivid imagery of the Holi pigment, this collection is graphic and celebrates unapologetically this explosion of colour, in a bold feast of hot pink, scarlet red, citrine, chartreuse, electric blue and ivory. The challenge though, was to exercise just enough control to not make the colours loud or intimidating whilst keeping the essence of its playful abandon.

Colour used in the right proportions can be just as sophisticated as black, beige and indigo, and I have always disliked the assumption that vivid colour is somehow vulgar, less refined.

Culturally our penchant for colour is what separates us from the rest of the world in an increasingly homogenous fashion landscape.

In that sense, this collection reflects a young and proud India. One that is comfortable in its skin, and certainly doesn't shy away from its roots.

The garments are colour-blocked with handwoven textiles from our artisans in Bhagalpur, Bangalore, Bengal and Benaras, in light silks and organzas, teamed with shirting cotton. This season we also colour-blocked for the first time, our distinct pleated shapes in georgette and satin. The separates are layered, easy and some hems are raised to make way for the summer. Structured yet fluid, draped and tailored and as always fierce but also feminine.

The focus was to explore new silhouettes, some of which were achieved by rethinking details such as seams. By sculpting the fabric around the body so that side seams followed the pleat or the drape, or in some cases were done away with entirely.

Announcing the arrival of spring, our floral 'Tachi' brass accessories were inspired by some of the flowers that were originally used to create the pigment for Holi - Jacaranda, Roses, Saffron, Marigold and Gulmohar. These organic shapes strung into necklaces, earrings and rings complement the sharp geometric colour blocked collection and add an element that is delicate but still strong.