This year spring summer is inspired by all things geometry.
The starting point of this collection was less romantic than it might seem. My daughter is
6, learning about shapes in school and since art mimics life, in this case it was just a
day to day homework assignment that jumpstarted it all.I was always very fond of
geometry class in school (mostly because it involved some drawing – my first love) The
nostalgia of my metal geometry box, the compass, the set square, the simplicity and
complexity of shapes, it was the perfect way to begin this story.
There were also, my constant sources of inspiration, artist and sculptor Richard Serra
and artist Franz Kline steering the direction of the collection. Serra’s enormous yet
minimal metal sculptures move from flat shapes into 3 dimensional structures in such a
poetic way and Kline is such a bold painter, his artworks are such an evocative play of
negative and positive space. My hope was to translate these qualities and channel them
humbly into the clothes and accessories somehow.
So a focus on shapes – circles, triangles and my favourite the mostly ignored
parallelogram took center stage. Repeats, lines, symmetry, asymmetry and angles are
echoed across the clothes, including the silhouettes, hand woven artisanal details as
well as the tailoring.
We continue our work with our weavers in Varanasi, this time customizing our patterns
to carry forward the theme. The motifs are woven in metallic gold and silver thread in
geometric patterns to keep them traditional but also contemporary.We also worked
extensively with our craftsmen in Bengal, added a shuttle to the weaving process, and
after a season of research and development, colour blocked mulberry and matka silk
textiles diagonally, with better drape and fall for the saris and for our garments.
In addition to our layered separates and saris, this season we will also showcase our
recently launched handcrafted line Tachi, this will include leather accessories, bags and
belts. Keeping with the story these have been designed from simple 2 dimensional
shapes, with keen attention to bold shapes and negative spaces.
We will also introduce a new line of brass and leather jewelry that will accompany our
signature house aesthetic, specifically designed to complement this line.This will
include rings, necklaces, earrings, nose-pins, bangles and anklets that are bold, modern
Keeping in mind zero wastage, many of the accessories are fashioned from negative
spaces, so that a circle punched from a square bangle becomes a circular
pendant.Several garments are also sewn purposefully from an uninterrupted square or
rectangular piece of fabric. Diagonally cut fabric allows the leftover triangular shape of
one garment to become the triangle in another.
This allows us to contribute in a small way to sustainability and also makes the design
process a bit more challenging and peppered with happy accidents.A palette of whites
is punctuated with sorbet colours. Coral, fuschia, citrine, chartreuse and blush are
highlighted with metallics, vintage gold and silver this season.Textures will range from
cottons, linens, permanent pleating, lightweight hand woven silks and neoprene to silk
organzas and handcrafted brocades.
It’s our version of resort wear –distinct and relaxed shapes, fierce yet feminine, coupled
with menswear elements for a comfortable, luxurious option that is simple and
sensible.One that can take you from a summer vacation to a summer wedding.